Transvestia

stead, V-necks, long narrow collars, firm shoulder lines with either raglan or set-in sleeves and tailored pleated detail.

THE STOUT WOMAN: The stout woman has much the same problem as the short woman. Her's is also one of counteracting horizontal lines, for she has too much width and wishes to look taller and slimmer.

She must never draw fabric tight over protruding surfaces. This attracts attention to them and reveals rather than conceals them. She should camouflage them by using drapery, inserted pleats or long panels. V-neck- lines, softly draped bodices or surplice lines are excellent for minimizing a heavy bosom. Long lines that cut the width by the introduction of seamings, contrasting fab- rics or inserted panels are excellent.

She should use materials with a dull surface rather than very shiny ones. She should use soft or grayed colors instead of light or bright ones. She should avoid large-patterned prints of definite design and instead choose a pattern with an all over effect. She should avoid wide belts of contrasting fabrics, a broken.belt line or a soft girdle of the same material as the dress, will tend to minimize her width.

She can use drapery to advantage, particularly if it hangs in a line. She should use soft rather than stiff or starched fabrics.

She should avoid fluffy, long haired furs such as fox and use instead the medium-long furs such as mink, sable, squirrel, beaver, seal, persian lamu or caracul. She should keep accessories in scale, neither so large that they add to her size, nor so small that they look ridicul-

ous.

Since her neck is probably short and stout, she should keep her collars low so as not to cut what height she has. Since her face is likely to be round, her hats should cut it at an oblique angle.

THE VERY TALL WOMAN: The very tall woman or the thin girl has the problem of lessening this perpendicular

52